Kayaking the Albion River

 

Heading south from the Inn…

Just a little over 5 1/2 miles, only 15 minutes down the way, the Albion River meets the sea. When you take the left-hand turn onto Albion River N. Side Rd., towering eucalyptus guide you down into the harbor below the bridge. The road leads to a special and unique view of the very last wooden bridge left on California State Route One. Its sturdy and steadfast tenacity since 1944 has given it well deserved status, being listed in the National Register of Historic Places in 2017. Complete with family friendly camping, beachcombing, fishing, and various other activities, the Albion River has something for everyone. Surrounded by breathtaking forest hills, and a magical menagerie of wildlife, you will find yourself enticed and wanting to come back for more.

The last wooden bridge on the Pacific Coast Highway (CA Hwy 1)…

The last wooden bridge on the Pacific Coast Highway (CA Hwy 1)…

This day we chose to brave the cool, misty afternoon, chasing the sun beaming through the fog and heading upriver in a tandem kayak. Past the campers and around the bend, we found the first and most impressive of the legendary Albion houseboats. Yes, I did say houseboats. There are a total of four fascinating old homes floating on the river, three of which are visited occasionally by the humble local occupants, who generally reside elsewhere. The two-story building before us was obviously both a passion project and a constant work in progress. Those that choose to take it on had left heartfelt touches, evident even from afar. Succulents on the deck, handmade fabric shades on the repurposed windows, a photo of the last long-time tenant who passed on a few years back. Lively river otters had made the decks their home and could be seen happily sunning their fur by the front door. Further on was a stunning floating version of a tiny home that was utterly endearing to say the least. Candles and chimes were lovingly placed in a meditation style space ideal for a quick getaway from all things urban.

Two story houseboat on the Albion, a safe haven & home to playful river otters…

Two story houseboat on the Albion, a safe haven & home to playful river otters…

 
Treasured plants, photos, knickknacks on the decks & windows of the home…

Treasured plants, photos, knickknacks on the decks & windows of the home…

 

On the banks of the Albion, we saw Canadian geese with their gaggle of tiny fluffy goslings, eyeing us from the shore as we drifted by, protective of their young, and taking them under their wings. Sea lions and jumping fish seemed to follow us to the soft and comforting embrace of the warmer waters as we ventured ever closer to the enchanted meadow upstream. Remnants of the old logging operations still stood, like pillars of history, monuments of the industry that drove thousands north to the redwood forests of Mendocino County. The old log pond was a respite for us, a moment to feel the ground beneath our feet again, stretch our legs, and have a snack. From our soft mossy seat on a spit jutting out into the pond, we watched as both heron and egret slowly waded through the reeds. They immediately captured our attention when taking flight, soaring up high, only to drop gracefully in an instant onto a branch in the trees above.

Around a bend we find another home afloat…

Around a bend we find another home afloat…

 
Tiny river retreat… can you spot the ladder to the loft?

Tiny river retreat… can you spot the ladder to the loft?

 

The water was balmy and clear, the temperature just right for dipping our toes as we continued our trek through the rippling river. We had timed our adventure to ride back with the tide and it was beginning to turn just as we reached the enchanted meadow. The open grassy plain was doing its best to invite us in, but we knew it was time to turn around. There was a chill to the air as the sun dipped closer to the ocean, and it would take some time to get back. The moment had come to flip our direction and head west towards the beach. We let the tide carry us most of the way, silently soaking in the views and listening to the sounds of the water gently gliding along the sides of the kayak. As we approached the saltier air of the ocean, friendly folks waved from the dock, welcoming us back to land after a seven-mile round-trip excursion. We got a pretty good work out and were ready to head home to warm up by the fire. As we sat, reminiscing on the serenity of the peaceful river, we promised to visit her again soon. We felt like our souls had been soothed, our bodies rejuvenated, and our minds had been recharged. Already planning our next adventure on the coast.

A soft spot to stretch your legs & watch the birds fly by…

A soft spot to stretch your legs & watch the birds fly by…

Wildflowers among the tall grass…

Wildflowers among the tall grass…

For a small fee, you too can experience this wild and untamed river for yourself. Visit the Albion River Campground & Marina Market to rent either single or tandem kayaks by the hour. You’ll need some experience under your belt as there aren’t any guides available, but it is so worth it! If you catch it just right, you may even be lucky enough to view the sunset behind the majestic beauty of the old wooden bridge.

Mossy banks & foggy forest…

Mossy banks & foggy forest…

Words & pictures by Sarah Rowe