Secret Access
Taking the shortcut to the Russian Gulch waterfall
Oh my goodness. Have you looked at our recent lineup of blog posts? Wine, whiskey, smoothies, and more wine and caviar – we’ve been eating and drinking up a storm! This week, the ol’ legs were begging to get in on the action, so at the tail end of the day yesterday, we changed into walking shoes and darted up to Russian Gulch State Park to get in a brisk hike to the waterfall before the daylight completely disappeared. We didn’t quite have enough time to do the full hike from the main trailhead, especially since twilight falls a little more quickly in the middle of all those lovely redwoods than it usually does elsewhere, so rather than turn into the park at the main entrance, we went a little farther north to the trailhead that we like to think of as Russian Gulch’s secret back entrance…
To be honest, this “secret” access point is not really much of a secret – whenever we go this way, there are invariably at least a couple other cars ranged along the side of the road, tucked into the few small near-turnouts that nudge back the rich woods growing right onto the shoulder. But still, it never fails to feel like we have insider knowledge when we pull to a stop in the dirt on the side of the road and swing our doors open to the quiet sounds of the trees around us. Yesterday was no different.
As we stood beside our car and stretched out the kinks of a full day’s work, a few little insects buzzed in drowsy circles in the golden beams of the slowly sinking sun. Wanting to pause and admire but also wanting to get in our hike before it got dark, we cast a glance up the quiet country road towards the golden glow just below the tops of the trees and then walked through the gate on the southern side of the road. We stepped out briskly past the old horse camp, feeling our muscles happily respond to the movement as we picked our way over and around the gnarled network of old roots that laced across the Northern Boundary Trail. We smiled at the tiny woodland violets and delicate fairy bell-like flowers of the huckleberry bushes that lined the path and inhaled the smell of the woods, at once dusty and damp, full of bright green scents and the rich smell of decomposing plant matter.
We turned left at the East Trail and wound our way down that long, twisting slope to the peacefully chattering brook at the bottom. We followed the stream to the right, pausing to admire a patch of variegated trillium nestled in a hollow along the bank. Through ferns and under a downed log the trail went, then across a bridge that took us up an embankment on the other side of the water. We followed the signs pointing us to the waterfall, and soon we were above the merry tumble of the creek making its way down over the edge of a 36’ rock wall. We delighted in the five-fingered ferns and lush mosses that lined the path going down to pool at the waterfall’s base, and we took an intentional moment at the bottom to stop and close our eyes. Inhale. Exhale. Yes, this hike was a good idea.
The dimming light reminded us that we should be heading home soon, so we turned and retraced our steps, powering back up the trail that had been almost completely downhill on the way in. It was the perfect way to get our heart rates up a bit at the end of the day and get us ready for a sound night’s sleep. As we hopped back in the car to head home to a shower and a bedtime snack, we agreed – this had been the perfect way to bring the day to a close.
To access this back road shortcut to the waterfall, head north from the inn on Hwy 1. I don’t know the exact mileage to the turn off – maybe 5ish? You’ll pass the main entrance to Russian Gulch State Park and keep going until you see the signs for Caspar-Little Lake Road (also called Road 409). Turn right, or east, up this charmingly windy little road and follow it back into the woods. Just about two miles in, the pavement narrows – keep going about another mile until the pavement turns into dirt. Right at this juncture, you’ll most likely see another car or two parked along the side of the road. Find a safe place to stash your own vehicle, and then get out, stretch your legs, grab your water bottle, and saunter on over to the gate on the south side of the road with the sign that points the way to the Horse Camp.
At the first split in the trail, stay left if you want to wander through the old campgrounds that horsey folk used to stay at with their equine friends. Stay right on the North Boundary Trail if you just want to head to the waterfall. Take the next left at the sign for the East Trail and then just stick to the main trail until you get to the waterfall– the official trail junctures are well marked, and although you may see several side trails running off into the woods, you won’t get lost if you stay on the main trail. If, once you’re out amongst the trees, you feel like staying out there longer, do a little more exploring! Of course, this is wisest if you’ve already stopped at the Front Desk on your way out from the inn to pick up a trail map, since you will most likely not have even a single bar of cell service out there.
From this particular trailhead to the waterfall and back is about 2 miles. I don’t have an exact read on the mileage, as my GPS isn’t super accurate out in the middle of the woods, but it is not nearly as long of a walk as starting at the main trailhead inside the park’s main entrance. I would rate this trail as beginning to intermediate, with some minor obstacles to navigate and a goodly incline to ascend on the way back.
Words and pictures by Laura Hockett