The Bewildered Pig
Where every plate is a work of art
You know that feeling you get when you are exposed to some form of art that moves you in a profound way? Maybe it’s that awe that overcomes you when you stand in the Sistine Chapel and gaze all around. Maybe it’s that sheer joy that lifts your spirit in the middle of a virtuosic violin solo at a live concert. Maybe it’s the silent tears you find welling up from some hidden place as you watch a poignant tale of loss or love or pain acted out on the stage, or even in a movie. Or maybe it’s the power of that overwhelming beauty that fills your senses when you’re out in the middle of nature, that masterful and ever-changing work of art. That feeling, those experiences, they stay with you – they linger in the back of your mind as you carry on with normal life, and you find yourself pulling them back out in moments of quiet to look at them and remember. At least, that’s how it has so often been for me, and that has been my continued experience with, believe it or not, the charming little restaurant in Philo known as The Bewildered Pig owned and run by Chef Janelle Weaver and her husband Daniel Townsend.
Although Janelle & Daniel opened their brick-and-mortar location in the Anderson Valley in the beginning of 2016, I only just recently had the opportunity to stop by and see for myself what all the fuss was that I had been hearing so much about during the last five years. I stepped out of the car on a drizzly day, full of anticipation as my partner in crime for the day and I looked across the graveled lot and through the arbor that showed the way into the restaurant’s enclosed patio and garden area. We knew we were arriving right at the very end of the lunch hour, so we hurried through the happy, subdued murmur of diners who have just eaten very well and were ushered to an empty table right inside the open door. As we waited for our food, we gazed around at the whimsically rustic details and design elements that somehow all combined to create a sense of both refinement and comfort. We hadn’t even tasted anything yet, and we were utterly charmed.
When the food arrived at our table, we understood why Guy and Sarah and so many other people had been so consistently talking up Chef Janelle’s food. Not only was it absolutely gorgeous to look at, the play of flavors and textures once we took our first bite was a true work of art as well. The Miso Devilled Eggs were almost too pretty to eat*. The Beet Salad was a provocative mix of locally grown and foraged greens – bitter, lemony, herbal, fuzzy, tender, and incredibly fresh beyond belief – topped with tangy beets, gloriously bright carrots, and the decadent creaminess of Chevre. And the Sunchoke Soup with its elegant swirl of Crème fraiche on top was… oh my. I don’t even know how to describe it. So savory. So smooth. So perfect. We sat back from our plates, our mouths thoroughly sated with the drama of all those luscious flavors and our stomachs filled to just the right level, the exact level you might call a thoroughly elegant sufficiency.
In the intervening weeks since our visit to The Bewildered Pig, I have found myself dreaming again and again of those meticulously crafted plates, each one a work of art in and of itself. When I had the chance to chat with Janelle for a little bit the other day, the idea of food as art came up. She said, “Absolutely. I made the decision to be a chef when I was in my early 20s, knowing that this was something I was passionate about. I love the hospitality side too, as well as inspiring our staff to grow and mature in their own journey, but at its core it more often than not comes down to my passion for creating these miniature works of installation art on each plate that speak of the beauty of this fantastical corner of the world and our place in it.” And how well you do that, Chef! How completely and utterly well!
While normally closed during January, Janelle & her husband Daniel are taking a longer-than-normal winter break this year to work on a few projects and expansions that they have been dreaming up for a while. They do not yet have a firm re-opening date, but expect The Bewildered Pig to be back open for business sometime in late spring. Keep an eye on their website and Facebook page to see if you can experience a meal at one of their charming tables or pick up some “Pignic” fare on your next visit to the Mendocino coast and the Anderson Valley.
*Word of caution to those mild souls who aren’t feeling up for a prickly bit of heat: The sliver of homegrown Serrano chile from Daniel’s garden that Janelle tucks into the crown of each devilled egg can be pretty potent. It is fairly easy to remove if you’re not feeling adventurous… or be bold and revel in the full flavor profile of creamy and spicy and deliciously savory!
Words and some photos Laura Hockett